Pete Wells awards an enthusiastic two stars to Amanda Cohen's vegetarian restaurant, Dirt Candy: "Ms. Cohen gives cauliflower florets a long bath in maple smoke, dips them in cornflakes, fries them to a golden crisp and serves them on waffles. She's making a visual pun on the chicken-leg shape of the florets and stems. But these smoky and crunchy nuggets also invite you to see vegetables as an indulgence, a pleasure that is not quite guilty but not entirely innocent, either." [NYT]
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