New York critic Adam Platt is throughly unimpressed by the brand new Upper East Side location of pricey Italian restaurant Il Mulino. Although the decor is fine and the service is good, the food is a real downer:
"These make me want to eat real baked clams," said one of my guests as she poked at a platoon of listless, peanut-size vongole casino, which appeared to have been hastily dusted with bread crumbs from a box. My helping of $24 scampi oreganata contained just two rubbery, recently defrosted "jumbo" shrimp, and the gummy slivers of tuna in my neighbor's $26 carpaccio di tonno had been imprisoned in the refrigerator for so long that she had to scrape them from the edge of her plate.Plattypants also takes issue with the $60 price tag of a "cafeteria-quality osso bucco," and the $65 charge for "slightly overcooked" branzino. The critic gives the restaurant zero stars.
· Uptown Iteration of Il Mulino Pales Next to the West Village Original [NYM/GS]
· All Coverage of Il Mulino [~ENY~]