For her Hungry City column this week, Ligaya Mishan visits hole-in-the-wall Rustic L.E.S., where Elsa Leon and her self-taught chef husband Yassir Raouli are serving chicken pastilla, braised short rib, and lamb burgers: "Rustic L.E.S. is so small, so hidden, you wonder: how can it survive? Because you want it to. The food is uneven, which is to say homey. But it has the imprint of someone who takes pleasure in cooking, and in sharing that pleasure." Leon and Raouli also own the Moroccan food truck Bistro Truck. [NYT]
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