This week, New York restaurant critic Adam Platt files on Blanca, chef Carlo Mirarchi's 12-seat, Michelin-starred chef's counter out in the "wilds of Bushwick." Plattypants loves a lot of the food here, especially the protein courses that make up the middle of the meal:
Mirarchi has long had an underground reputation as one of the city's preeminent pasta wizards, but as dinner unfolds at Blanca, it becomes clear that his real genius is for cooking fish and meat. The house garganelli, and toasted-flour "twistiti," blandly flavored with mushrooms, aren't especially memorable. But I can tell you in intricate detail about the little stack of snow-crab legs from Alaska, which the chef grills to the perfect point of sweetness, then spoons with a subtle mix of crab guts, uni, and sake lees.Platt also notes that he's charmed by the spirit of the restaurant, and that a four hour dinner "seemed half that long." He bestows three stars upon Blanca, a very high rating for Platt. This is the second official review of Blanca by a big-deal critic (Jay Cheshes swooped in and filed a report back in August). Expect reports from Sutton, Wells, and maybe even Cuozzo in the next few weeks.
· Three Stars for Blanca, Roberta's Upscale Tasting Room [NYM/GS]
· All Coverage of Blanca [~ENY~]