The Robs award four U.G. stars to Thirty Acres, the new Jersey City restaurant from Momofuku vet Kevin Pemoulie: "After diners expressed the desire for heartier portions, Pemoulie modified his opening small-plates lineup to include more traditional entrées. Still, at best, his is a cuisine not of appeasement but of bravura and style, invoking American traditions while evolving them into intriguing new forms. One night's raw black sea bass, for example, is festooned with sauerkraut, apple mustard, and rye-bread crumbs." [GS/NYM]
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