What is the Post's resident restaurant critic and curmudgeon griping about now? Mediocre Italian restaurants, which are now encircling Manhattan. Included on his hit list are Valbella, the suburban import in the old Alto space, Midtown's Casa Nonna, Pino Luongo's new spot Morso, Upper East Side newcomer Il Tesoro, and (though he reserves final judgement on this one) Stephen Starr's Caffe Storico. [NYP]
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