For this week's review, Pete Wells visits Crown, the swanky new Upper East Side restaurant from The Lion's John DeLucie. Wells finds that the chef has created a restaurant that perfectly matches the tastes of its well-to-do clientele. Other diners, however, might find the menu a bit too expensive and/or boring:
You will not get your first taste of sea buckthorn airlifted from Denmark, nor a plate of prosciutto from a boar the chef tracked and killed with a homemade crossbow. Like the work of the best Upper East Side caterers, most of the cooking at Crown is agreeably dull, with occasional pockets of excellence amid some patches of unalloyed boredom.Wells likes many of the meat dishes, the wine program, and the desserts, but warns to stay away from the chicken which "seems to be intended not for people who like the flavor of chicken but for those who aren’t aware it is supposed to have any flavor at all."
· Crown [NYT]
· All Coverage of Crown [~ENY~]