Reviews for Parm, Gwynnet St., Sottocasa, and More

As noted yesterday, Times critic Pete Wells awarded two stars to Torrisi spinoff Parm this week, writing, "I would like somebody to explain why my mind keeps drifting back to the meatball parmigiana hero at Parm...like most things at Parm, it is completely faithful to your memories while being much, much better than you remembered." [NYT]

Steve Cuozzo heads out to East Williamsburg and likes what he finds at Gwynnett St.: "Attention to detail draws forth intense, primal flavors, and just enough invention makes familiar-sounding main elements new. If baby bok choy always tasted this good, I’d have it all the time. It anchored a refreshing cold salad where cauliflower, grapefruit and feta cheese joined the party." [NYP]

Lauren Shockey discovers a lovely neighborhood gem in Boerum Hill newcomer Sottocasa: "You won't discover life-changing pizza or much you can't nosh on elsewhere, but the chefs here prize high-quality ingredients, resulting in the type of tasty, cozy spot you're more than happy to have around the corner." [VV]

Tables for Two checks in on David Burke Kitchen in the basement of the James Hotel: "The style in Burkeville could be described as over-the-top, and how well this meshes with farm food depends on the dish. It’s fun to spoon chicken liver from a pint-size jelly jar before your meal...But stay away from the salmon pastrami, leathery strips of fish wrapped around slightly soggy pretzel sticks. Some foods, apparently, should never assume lollipop form." [New Yorker]

In the place of Plattypants, The Robs file on a couple of breakfast taco specialists that just popped up in Brooklyn, Gueros Brooklyn and Whirlybird, awarding each three Underground Gourmet stars. On the former: "A crackerjack squad runs this assembly line as energetically and efficiently as the poissonier runs the fish station at Le Bernardin, building each specimen from griddle-crisped tortilla to paper-boated pocket in what seems like seconds." [NYM]

THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene checks in on old great Christian Delouvrier at Midtown French spot La Mangeoire, Julia Moskin likes a lot of what's going on at Calyer in Greenpoint, Steven Stern loves the gin at The Shanty, Jay Cheshes compares two new Williamsburg bar/restaurants Allswell and Lighthouse, and Robert Sietsema finds Russian/Korean fusion out in Brighton Beach at Elza Fancy Foods,

THE BLOGS: Immaculate Infatuation can't stand Corkbuzz and is glad La Esquina opened up in Williamsburg, Feisty Foodie enjoys a brunch at The Highliner, NY Journal calls Wong one of the most original restaurants to open in New York in awhile, The Food Doc writes that the food at King has yet to equal its ambition, Serious Eats has an A-level meal at Kajitsu, The Pink Pig doesn't dislike Northern Spy Food Co. as much as he used to, and Kika Eats loves what's going on at BaoBQ.