This week, Pete Wells heads to Parm, the new casual spinoff of critical darling Torrisi Italian Specialties. He awards it two stars, which is the same rating that Sam Sifton gave the mother ship next door about a year and a half ago. Wells devotes much of his column space to praising one of the restaurant's signature sandwiches, the meatball parm:
Like most things at Parm, which opened on Mulberry Street in November, it is prepared by cooks wearing white paper hats and is set before you in a red plastic basket. And, like most things at Parm, it is completely faithful to your memories while being much, much better than you remembered.He's also impressed by the clams, the calamari, the pizza knots, and pretty much everything else here, including the somewhat cartoony decor. The real question now: when will Wells visit the original restaurant to try out its much-heralded New York history-based tasting menu?
· Parm [NYT]
· All Coverage of Parm [~ENY~]