Sam Sifton heads back to North Brooklyn to award one star to St. Anselm in Williamsburg. He's very impressed with the restaurant's recent menu overhaul: "The new iteration is charming, with a pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody." He also notes: "St. Anselm is Keens for the millennial set, a Bar Americain for the riders of fixed-gear bikes." [NYT]
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