Adam Platt is pleasantly surprised by how good the food is at Nolitan hotel restaurant Ellabess, but doesn't like it enough to award more than one star: "Inspired little recipes like this might eventually help Ellabess avoid the dreaded curse of the boom-time hotel. But right now, there aren’t quite enough of them on the menu to merit a trip to this strange border region of Kenmare. If you happen to find yourself stranded in the neighborhood at lunchtime, however, the fried-chicken sandwich...is a thing of beauty." [NYM]
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