From chef Eddie Huang's extra long love letter to the future National Desk Editor Sam Sifton: "Like a shitty movie with Coolio on the soundtrack and a teacher breaking through to kids, Sifton got it. As Prodigy would say, he spoke the dun language...His reviews recognized that food in NY shares a space with art, music, fashion, and film....He told inside jokes, understood stigma, used code words that we would get..." [Fresh Off the Boat]
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