Sam Sifton awards two stars to "the Manhattan equivalent of a private yacht anchored off Monaco," Boulud Sud: "These all taste of vacation, and are as welcome. You can have the lamb afterward, or the scallops or the seared wagyu with puréed fava beans, or share a salt-baked loup de mer that could run for office as Manhattan’s moistest fish. In Mr. Boulud’s house, there are many mansions." [NYT]
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