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Class Warfare

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2011_08_deen.jpgIn an op-ed column today Frank Bruni calls Anthony Bourdain elitist for critiquing Paula Deen's fatty cooking: "When Deen fries a chicken, many of us balk. When the Manhattan chefs David Chang or Andrew Carmellini do, we grovel for reservations and swoon over the homey exhilaration of it all...There’s some class-inflected hypocrisy in the food world..." [NYT; previously]