Welcome to Eater's column, Decanted, in which wine writer Talia Baiocchi guides us through the treacherous world of New York wine lists.
Summer inspires different booze cravings in all of us. It can range anywhere from the urge to drink a 6-pack of Bud Light in public, to a newfound predilection for Pimms, to an obsession with rosé. For those that lean towards the latter we’ve assembled a short list of restaurants and wine bars that are tailoring their wine offerings to the temperature. As always, please add your own recommendations to the comments.
Boulud Sud – Upper West Side
Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud sommelier Michael Madrigale is aiming to please the summer crowd--and, more specifically, all of those UWSers with fond memories of drinking Domaine Ott in the Hamptons--by offering 5 rosés by the glass, including Sperino’s Rosa Del Rosa poured out of magnum and bottled exclusively for Madrigale. In addition to the by the glass options, he has a full page of rosé that focuses on the style’s spiritual home: Provence. It also welcomes some worthy hitchhikers from Spain, Greece, and Italy. Don’t miss Gaia’s 14-18h Rosé of Agiorgitiko ($9/35) on the low end and Pradeaux’s classic Provençal rosé ($19/79) on the high.
Le Comptoir – Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Another worthy pit stop for the pink wine-inclined. Co-owner Adrien Angelvy is a native of Provence and has decided to pay tribute to his home region by launching a rosé bar featuring 10 different wines from Provence, Languedoc, and NY State—by the glass ($7-15). Note: there are also a few options by the magnum and 3L for those looking to park it in the back garden.
Terroir/Hearth/Summer of Riesling Affiliates — Earth
Terroir’s Summer Riesling has gone National this year, grabbing over 150 restaurants and wine bars from New York to California, each of which has agreed to pour at least 3 Rieslings by the glass all summer long. Ground zero—the original Terroir in the East Village—is offering only Riesling by the glass for their white wine pours. So, like it or not, it’s the drink of the summer. For a complete list of participants, put your sunglasses on and check out the site.
The Lot on Tap— — Chelsea
The High Line’s new drinking digs, The Lot, is billed as a beer garden but also has a selection of four Gotham Project wines on tap. They are $9 a piece and require minimal contemplation—a must-stop for those looking for some mindless consumption. Among the easy-drinking choices: a Riesling from our own Finger Lakes, a rosé from Washington State and a Zin from California.
Casa Mono & Bar Jamon — Gramercy
Casa Mono and Bar Jamon have long been New York’s sherry watering holes, but this summer wine director Ashley Santoro is paying homage to the solera system by offering an increased selection of sherry by the glass. A total of 17 are available right now, including 6 dry sherries that act as perfect accessories to a night of elbowing strangers in the inevitably steamy Bar Jamon. Don’t miss La Cigarrera’s Manzanilla ($9) on the low end and Emilio Hidalgo’s Fino La Panesa Especial ($17) on the high.
— Talia Baiocchi
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