Word on the street is that today, Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton will review Empellon, wd~50 vet Alex Stupak's ambitious, perpetually-packed Mexican restaurant. Clearly, Sifton has been taking his time with this one — the place opened three months ago, and often times high-profile projects like this get a review within the first two months. Adam Platt awarded it two stars, noting that the tacos were the best thing, and the entrees "felt like an afterthought." Sietsema also loved the tacos but not the entrees, and Cheshes awarded it two stars, and didn't like the tacos.
Sifton hasn't reviewed many Mexican restaurants in his tenure, but he did file a glowing one star review last year for Toloache, which has a fairly straightforward menu. So, the questions is: will he be wowed by what's satisfying and inventive on Stupak's menu, and award it a two-spot? Or will he dig the tacos, but find that the rest needs work, and give it a singleton. Vote below.
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