Adam Platt awards two stars to David Bouley's ambitious new Japanese restaurant, Brushtroke. Although he's not pleased with the fact that you can only order a sushi dinner at the bar, he finds a lot to like there: "the milky, rose-colored o-toro tuna belly...is as good as any you’ll find in the more established fat-cat sushi temples farther uptown. Ditto the pearly white slices of squid..." [NYM]
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