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Word on the street today is that Times critic Sam Sifton will file on Greenwich Village veteran Gotham Bar & Grill. And as readers have noted, it's about damn time! The restaurant, still helmed by chef Alfred Portale and his latest chef de cuisine Adam Longworth, celebrated its 25th anniversary at the end of 2009 and hasn't seen its name inked in a proper Times review since Ruth Reichl's three spot over fifteen years ago. It's a New York classic, and it would be almost too cruel for him to return just to demote it. The question now is, will he reinstate its three star status (the smart money choice) or go for full drama and give it an upgrade?
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