Today, the Cuozz uses his weekly column inches to rag on the recently published World's 50 Best Restaurant List. The list, compiled by 800 judges around the world, is always a cause of controversy for some reason or another ("How is the exclusive El Bulli even on the list?" followed by "Why isn't El Bulli on there this year?"). Cuozzo notes that the list, like all lists, is just goofy. But he still has some points to make:
In the same belly-laughs category is the global No. 89 recognition for London's Bar Boulud -- but none for the New York original that's ridiculously better than London's. Where's Del Posto? L'Atelier Joel Robuchon at the Four Seasons? Marea? Nowhere! But Eleven Madison Park made No. 24. By what magic did wd-50 weigh in at No. 81? (A fine place, mind you -- but No. 81 in the world?) How many voters did it take to award the No. 95 position to $500-a-head Masa, a place that often seems closed on nights when we stroll through Time Warner Center's fourth floor?Meanwhile Chicago's Michael Nagrant has a few choice words for number 40 on the list, Momofuku Ssam Bar:
Momfuku Ssam might not even be David Chang's best restaurant. I ate there last week. It's very good, however, in terms of service and level and quality of food, it's almost exactly the Asian version of Avec (which was built three years earlier), right down to the architectural layout and stools (which by the way were a little chipped at Momo and very much rejuvenated at the post-fire redo of Avec). It's absurd that Ssam makes it and Avec isn't even in the conversation.Apparently, Chicagoans don't think Alinea is their only praiseworthy restaurant. Who knew?
For what it's worth, the Eater commenters also have some thoughts regarding that Momo ranking.
· Best restaurant list bites [NYP]
· A deeper dive into the Top 50 restaurants in the world [Chicago Tribune]