Today Sam Sifton awards one star to Jesús Núñez's UWS Spanish restaurant Graffit. He notes: "Jesús Núñez, the Madrid chef who opened the restaurant in December, has no evident interest in classical cooking — either Spanish or any other kind. His attention instead appears to be centered on art and architecture, on a playful response to culinary tradition rather than an allegiance to it." The takeaway: "Despite its arty pretension, it can be a hoot to eat there." [NYT]
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