Adam Platt files a twofer on French newcomers La Silhouette (two stars and La Petite Maison (none). He says of the former, "The lamb loin I ordered one evening...wouldn’t have been out of place at one of Daniel’s finer restaurants, and neither would the softly braised monkfish tournedos, which were sunk in a rich, smoky shellfish broth cut with a hint of preserved lemon." The latter restaurant, on the other hand, serves "listless, overpriced facsimiles of Niçois classics." [NYM]
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