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Complaint Box

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2009_03_merkatoparty.jpgToday, restaurant world curmudgeon Steve Cuozzo complains of the clubification of dining out, as epitomized by Beauty & Essex on the Lower East Side, new Cooper Square Hotel restaurant/lounge/club The Trilby, and The Darby: "Awhile back, I stopped into Bagatelle on West 13th Street (since closed) for brunch. I’d barely taken a bite when the house erupted into a dancing frenzy sparked by a mid-room spinner." What we would have given to be there. [NYP]