Adam Platt spends much of his two star review riffing on the temporary nature and rag tag furniture of John Fraser's What Happens When, but he enjoys the food: "Fraser’s cooking can have a thin, cobbled-together feel, but it’s rarely boring...the most inventive dish of all was a giant, wintry knob of celery root, which was salt-baked in a theatrical volcano shape, cut in pineapple-size slices, and arranged with cuttings of green apples on a bed of Cream of Wheat speckled with black truffles." [NYM]
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