Eric Asimov awards one star to Mario Batali and Mark Ladner's Lupa. He notes that the restaurant is just as crowded as it was 12 years ago, but that some of the magic is gone: "The food, under Cruz Goler, the chef de cuisine, strains to meet the demands of popularity. At its best it can be highly satisfying, but it’s inconsistent and sometimes has a slightly tired feeling." [NYT]
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