Still no word yet on who will be the next New York Times critic, but today wine writer Eric Asimov steps in as the interim critic. He'll be reviewing restaurants from now until whenever they pick the next Sam Sifton. His last stint as guest critic was back in 2002, when he subbed for William Grimes.
And today, he awards two stars to Chelsea Spanish restaurant Salinas. He likes what chef Luis Bollo is cooking these days:
You will not find hocus-pocus at Salinas, but you will find tripe, an ingredient that can make mature adults recoil in childish fear but in Mr. Bollo’s hands achieves a wonderful, belly-warming magic of its own. It is braised with tomato (and, shhh, veal feet, which add richness) to a point of melting tenderness, then served with bits of chorizo, ham, smoked paprika and, as a crowning glory, crisp little chickpeas that offer a perfect crunchy contrast. On a recent chilly night, this dish made me sigh.Not surprisingly, he has a few bones to pick with the wine list: "I would suggest a white and red on the list, Zarate’s refreshing 2010 albariño and the 2006 Pirineos, made from the rarely seen parraleta grape grown in the Pyrenees region of Somontano." What will Asimov review next? And how long will he sit in the critic's chair? Only time will tell.
· Salinas [NYT]
· Eric Asimov Is the Interim Restaurant Critic [NYT]
· All Coverage of Salinas [~ENY~]
· All Coverage of Eric Asimov [~ENY~]