It's up: Sam Sifton's last review. And, as many predicted, it is in fact a four star rave for Thomas Keller's fine dining destination Per Se. It begins: "SO this is the best restaurant in New York City: Per Se, in the Time Warner Center, just up the escalator from the mall, a jewel amid the zirconia."
Sifton has been going there throughout his two year tenure, and now he finds that the restaurant is truly firing on all cylinders:
...in recent years, and particularly under the kitchen command of Eli Kaimeh, who has been Per Se’s chef since early 2010, Per Se has matured. Its synthesis of culinary art and exquisite service is now complete. It represents the ideal of an American high-culture luxury restaurantHe goes on to describe in great detail many of the classic and new dishes, and remark upon the excellent service. And with that, Sam Sifton is no longer the restaurant critic at The New York Times.
· A Critic Selects a Last Meal [NYT]
· All Coverage of Per Se [~ENY~]