Following former Times critic Mimi Sheraton's dismissal of Brooklyn yesterday, Sietsema files a defense of the borough as a culinary treasure: "I suspect Brooklyn's detractors are simply too lazy to find a subway and board it, their tongues so accustomed to the familiar and prosaic that they don't want to taste anything else. Their wits so dimmed by self-esteem that they're unwilling to admit that the culinary world as they know it - a world of French cuisine, heavy silverware, pinkies in the air, and $500 tabs - hardly exists anymore as far as most of us are concerned." [FitR; previously]
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