Today, Sam Sifton awards two stars to Shea Gallante's excellent Flatiron Italian spot Ciano: "Ciano is not yet an entirely smooth-running operation, and has some of the dewy awkwardness of a fawn...But a bowl of perfectly cooked tortellini stuffed with braised veal and sweetbreads makes up for a great deal, flavored with a hit of fennel, softened by the nuttiness of fontina cheese. So do Nantucket bay scallops, candy of the sea, smartly paired with hazelnuts, brussels sprouts and more of that Hubbard squash, here cut into mostarda." [NYT]
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