Adam Platt awards his first stars of the year, three of them to be exact, to Vegas Thai import Lotus of Siam: "...the dense, multipage document at Lotus of Siam reads like the Magna Carta...The potentially rubbery tod mun pla fish cakes ($10) have a quenelle-quality lightness to them, the fiery dishes...are righteously hot, and the soups and curries I sampled were layered with that classic, umami-rich balance of Thai flavors...without being glutinous or thick." [NYM]
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