Superlatives

Esquire critic John Mariani writes that there are only two great steaks left in America—one at Luger and one at Palm on Second Ave. On the latter: "The one-pound cut they serve at Palm is the template for all others in every steakhouse in America, including the chain's own...They are simply composed of beef that tastes the way USDA Prime used to taste in New York two to three decades ago and now almost never does. [Esquire]