Favorite restaurant industry curmudgeon Steve Cuozzo devotes his rant today to how downright crappy the restaurant industry is. It's not a new line of attack for the Cuozz, but as usual, it's a fun read.
He argues that no great restaurants have opened in 2010, leaving nothing for the critics to review except banh mi shops, pizzerias, and "Brooklyn joints blessed with undeserved stars just because they're in Brooklyn." All of the high end restaurants are either too loungey (Nuela, Zengo), or too clubby (The Lion), or are cynical attempts by big name chefs to make bank on their good names. He writes, "Chefs are losing their moorings as they chase elusive glory beyond the kitchens that made their reputations. Never have they seemed more adrift, like coked-up jazzmen of yore who might or not show up for a gig on any given night."
As usual, few are spared, as he calls out Chang, English, Conant, Tourondel, Psilakis, Samuelsson, and Brennan as disappointments. Maialino, ABC Kitchen, Annisa, Tamarind Tribeca and the Mark get a pass.
· Eat's a bad year for new places [NYP]
· Few are Spared in Cuozzo's Latest Restaurant World Rant [~ENY~]