Week in Reviews

Sam Sifton drops a deuce on 23 year-old Scandinavian restaurant Aquavit this afternoon, a restaurant that is apparently still chugging along even without its superstar chef Marcus Samuelsson (who earned it three in '01): "Aquavit’s dining room can be somewhat lonely these days, only a little more than half full at peak hours. There is a sour scent to some of the passageways, the sort that flowers cannot battle. But Mr. Jernmark has moved the menu toward a quiet, seasonal intensity that is well worth investigating." [NYT]