For those who didn't see the review drop yesterday afternoon, this week Sam Sifton reviewed David Chang's midtown restaurant Ma Peche, giving it two stars. His take: "The food is not quite as precise and magical as it often is in the downtown restaurants, but it is recognizably Changish and strong: big flavors tied together with herbs and acids."
And some other critics join in. Ryan Sutton calls it one of New York’s best steakhouses, "Think of it as an easier-to-get- into Minetta Tavern, minus the glamour."
Meanwhile, Sarah DiGregorio is not so enthralled: "...take a Chang venture and drain it of all liveliness. Turn it into a hotel restaurant. Jack up the prices, and hide away the kitchen...although executive chef Tien Ho is doing some remarkable cooking, I've never felt so claustrophobic in a place with such a high ceiling." [NYT; Bloomberg; VV]
Alan Richman approves of the new chef at Alain Ducasse's Adour, Didier Elena: "It is so appealing, so absolutely convincing, that if Adour doesn't thrive under him it might be that classic French food is doomed. Of course, there is an alternate scenario that has nothing to do with my theory: If Adour does not succeed, it might be because it is too pricey for the times." [GQ]
Jay Cheshes writes that Michael Ayoub's new version of Fornino in Park Slope is a miss: "The grilled pizzas at the new Fornino Park Slope—slim and crisp as crackers—aren’t likely to win many converts...With other dishes, Ayoub seems set on recapturing the glory of his Cucina years, when he helped pioneer a new era of dining in Park Slope. But his creative impulses too often miss the mark." [TONY]
THE ELSEWHERE: Dave Cook files an Under on Cafe "At Your Mother-in-Law" a restaurant that speaks Russian but tastes Korean, Robert Sietsema discovers some home style Kyoto cuisine at Momokawa in Curry Hill, Steve Cuozzo finds a scene at The Lion, and Gael Greene is thrilled with the revamp of Annisa.
THE BLOGS: NY Journal walks away mostly impressed with the food and the wine list at L'Artusi, Serious Eats gives a B+ to Shabu Shabu 70, Immaculate Infatuation is incredibly disappointed in Sagaponack, Pink Pig is surprised at how good the food is at LES bar White Slab Palace, Burger Club NY wants to have Shake Shack Midtown's baby, and NYC Food Guy has a lovely meal at Northern Spy Food Co.