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How Will Ma Peche Fare in Sam Sifton's First MomoReview?

Krieger, 4/2/10

Inside sources reveal that a Times photographer paid a visit to David Chang's midtown hotel experiment Ma Peche last week and that the Siftonator has been to the place no less than five times since the opening. Chances are, that baby is getting its real, final send-up mañana.

This could go a couple of ways. Early critics like Plattypants, Cheshes, and The Cuozz weren't exactly brimming with praise for the Ma Peche. They liked it alright but called it a "definite comedown," "watered down," "stilted and slightly off-key." The problem wasn't necessarily the food, but a lack of personality in the menu, the space, the overall vibe—not enough Momofuku pizzazz.

Since then, word has it that Chang has personally been in the kitchen almost constantly with executive chef Tien Ho and that the little tweaks made to the menu have paid off. Ryan Sutton's rave today may be testament to that. But is it enough to woo Sifton, who puts a heavy weight on atmosphere and a restuarant's place within the fabric of NYC? How will the monster meal, Beef 7 Ways, tip the scales? Both the deuce and the three are very, very much in play.

THE LINE: Goose Egg: 500 - 1; One Star: 15 - 1; Two Stars: 3 - 1; Three Stars: 4 - 1; Four Stars: 50 - 1. [Ma Peche Reviewed, NYT; ~ 8 PM]

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Má Pêche

15 West 56th Street, New York, NY 10019 Visit Website

Ma Peche

15 West 56th St., New York, NY