Today two critics—the Voice's Robert Sietsema and TONY's Jay Cheshes—weigh in on the return of Williamsburg's Pies 'n' Thighs. They agree that it's not as charming as the original location once was, but the reincarnation will do just fine, thank you. Says Cheshes:
While the down-and-dirty Southern fare—honest, cheap and often delicious—is certainly in line with Brooklyn’s all-American moment, it’s an audacious departure from the borough’s judiciously sourced, seasonally orthodox, self-righteously ethical ethos...Pies ’n’ Thighs feels as authentic as any venerable Dixieland food shack.Sietsema adds, "Only the black T-shirt undermines the fantasy that the café is located somewhere Down South, rather than just South Williamsburg." They also agree on what to order: the chicken ("superlative"), the catfish ("exceptional"), not the brisket ("leathery") or the burger.
In a review that reads much like Wells' previous brief, Sam Sifton gives two stars to FiDi sleeper hit Sho Shaun Hergatt: "Mr. Hergatt is a technically accomplished chef, with a commendable staff. But his restaurant is fussy and exacting in a city that has countered economic malaise with restaurants that are increasingly neither. In the end, sweet as its rabbit may be, SHO Shaun Hergatt is an anachronism." [NYT]
Ryan Sutton finds some clunkers at Jean-Georges' newcomer The Mark, but for the most part he's on board: "Skeptics will swoon over his black truffle pizza. The crust? Thin. The dough? Salted. The fungi? Heady and generously apportioned. The chef ought to sell it from a corner street cart..."[Bloomberg]
While Plattypants was off tasting milks this week, the Robs filed a rave of a review for Torrisi Italian Specialties, awarding the newish Italian restaurant five UG stars: "At $45, dinner’s a tremendous bargain, and a serious delight. In the realm of red-sauce cooking, it’s nothing short of revolutionary." [NYM]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan calls the sandwiches at No. 7 Sub exhilaratingly delicious, Tables for Two runs out of room but finds a lot to like at neighborhood spot Recette, Sarah DiGregorio hates the look but loves the taste of The Tangled Vine Wine Bar, Alan Richman heads to Elizabeth New Jersey to find some serious pie at Santillo’s Brick Oven Pizza, Gael Greene swoons over Ryan Skeen's work at 5 & Diamons, and Metromix deems Bread & Butter unfussy and thoughful.
THE BLOG: Fork in the Road notes that newcomer The Brindle Room is a good place for a drink and a snack, The Pink Pig finds a lot to like at 6th Street Kitchen, Serious Eats gives an A- to the Middle Eastern fare at newcomer Balaboosta, Immaculate Infatuation finds one of the best steaks in town at Strip House, The Food Doc gives a thumbs up to Ma Peche, NY Journal was surprised to find that Tanuki Tavern is a decent restaurant, NYC Foodie encounters some aggressive up-selling at Ippudo, and Life with Food and Drink is frustrated by Hell's Kitchen's Print.