Today, the Siftonator awards a well deserved two stars to Greenwich Village standby, Strip House, reminding readers that slams aren't always the most pleasurable reviews to read. It's an upgrade from Biff Grimes' onespot a decade ago, and Sifton notes the place has improved with age:
Age has given David Rockwell’s design for the room a kind of gravitas, and with it the restaurant has gained some of the clubby appeal you used to be able to find at places like Gino, on Lexington Avenue, which has a similar layout, or in the bar room at “21.”Actually, besides the steamed broccoli and filet mignon, there's not much the critic doesn't like. However, there is one highlight:
And the food is generally marvelous, the steak often superb.
Best is the New York strip...beefy and rich, tender, with the kind of giant, mineral-tinged flavor that puts elbows on the table and calls as much for martinis as for wine...Paired with a colossal ovoid of potatoes fried in goose fat, and a vat of creamed spinach made chic with black truffles, Strip House’s strip is on its way to becoming an iconic New York City meal, perhaps one day to take a place near the pan roast at the Oyster Bar, or the Grand Marnier shrimp at Shun Lee.[NYT]
Jay Cheshes checks in on newish West Village small plates spot Recette and discovers the plates are a bit too small: "With no hearty fillers among the dozen or so plates—an haute burger perhaps, or a big bowl of pasta—instead of having a liberated dining experience, you end up feeling coerced into an exorbitant, multicourse meal. On a recent evening we managed to spend nearly $300 on dinner for three, without overordering or blowing a bundle on wine." [TONY]
The Cuozz also hates the idea of small plates but is still able to enjoy much of the food at Faustina: "Call me a relic, but I dread 'small plates to share' — a racket to make you overspend, and one step from the zoo of old-time Italian-American “football” weddings...Most choices are fine for the price, and several would be bargains at any price." [NYP]
Tables for Two is not blown away by Colicchio & Sons in the slightest: "Unfortunately, Colicchio seems to have become a bit sloppy in the kitchen. Most everything was fine, but only that. A first course of gnocchi offered succulent doses of bone marrow but was unevenly seasoned, giving the middle of the dish a peppery burst and leaving the outer fringes bland." [New Yorker]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene deems the food at newcomer Print "mostly good and sometimes wonderful," Betsy Andrews files on East Village/LES budget spots Carteles, This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef, and Kinski, Ryan Sutton thinks it's amateur hour over at Recette, Robert Sietsema finds some big hits and reasonable prices at the East Village's Northern Spy Food Co., and Sarah DiGregorio notes the noodles at East Chinatown's Kuai An Hand Pull Noodles have a "wonderful, irregular elasticity."
THE BLOGS: Fork in the Road finds some hearty and delicious pozole at Mexican deli Zaragoza, Immaculate Infatuation find the clientele good looking, the food surprisingly good at Noho's The Smile, NY Journal gives Recette a stamp of approval in spite of its unoriginal concept, A Life Worth Eating runs some excellent food porn from Motorino, Ed Levine gives a B to Sandwiched at the Whitney, and NYC Foodie stops in at Ssam Bar and loves the grapefruit cream pie.