Sifton to Weigh in on Hidden Italian in Gramercy, Novita

Tomorrow, Sam Sifton offers his thoughts on the Gramercy Italian restaurant Novita. What now? Whosawhata? Again, it's Nov - i - taaaaaa, and according to the internet, it is an endearing little restaurant hidden away on a tree lined street that is for the most part beloved by Yelpers and their brethren. Ruth Reichl gave her a star in the Times over a decade ago and a sweet little blurb in Gourmet later. Fun.

PLAYBOOK: Since it's not a huge, big name restaurant or a major newcomer, this is one of those 'highlighting an oldie but a goodie' sendup. It's a 16 year-old restaurant with solid food, sometimes bristling service, and no major play in the food media. So then. A goose is out of the question. A one is a huge possibility, reasserting Ruthie's sentiment back in the 90's, as is a two given its many accolades on the blogs and review sites. Three is a long shot, four is not worth putting on the betting chart below.

SIFT HAPPENS: The scenario doesn't really apply here, given this is solidly in the one/two territory. But if Sifty really wanted to rock the food world, he would give her a three (not happening).

THE LINE: Goose Egg: 500 - 1; One Star: 2 - 1 ; Two Stars 3 - 1; Three Stars: 250 - 1. [Novita, NYT; after ~8PM]