Today, the Cuozz pens a takedown of the famed overpriced Midtown restaurant The Russian Tea Room, the last reminder of restaurateur Warner LeRoy after the shuttering of Tavern on the Green. Recently, the owners hired a new publicist who has been doing her best to get writers into the old joint. Be careful what you wish for. The Cuozz's top ten reasons why no one should ever go here:
1) Service: "Last Saturday night, customers were told to schlep their own coats down a flight of stairs to the checkroom."
2) Prices: Nine of 11 dinner entrees are $36 to $48. Desserts are $18 a piece.
3 - 10) Food: "A $38 Shashlik 'tasting' was evidently inspired by the shoe Khrushchev pounded at the UN"; "Watery short-ribs borscht tasted only faintly of beet or beef"; "Chicken Kiev contained mysterious hollows apparently meant for herbs that took the night off"; "Supermarket-grade herring and gravlax appetizers, $19 and $22, looked cut with scissors"; "Desserts...recalled desperate, 2 a.m. diner visits."
To close, "...neither gimmicks nor publicity can redeem dishes as horrible as many of the RTR's." Lord love the Cuozz.
· A czar cry from its heyday [NYP]