What has the New York dining scene lost as the face of a restaurant has changed from that of its host to that of its celeb chef? Sam Sifton writes today that while the decline in big name FOH wranglers—Kaufman, Niccolini, Maccioni, Soule—has democratized dining, "it can also leave a diner feeling flat and a little bit bored." He name checks The Lion, Lincoln, Mia Dona, The Lambs Club, and A Voce as chilly without hosts. [NYT]
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