Critics Weigh in on Lotus of Siam, The Fat Radish, and More

Adam Platt and Sam Sifton take the week off of reviewing to write some year end wrap ups, while The Cuozz writes of his longing for the long-gone Lutece and TONY's Jay Cheshes and Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton are MIA. But there are still reviews to be had!

Robert Sietsema writes that Lotus of Siam lost a bit of flavor and raised a lot of prices in its expansion to New York, but it still brings something new to the table: "...though our branch is disconcertingly upscale, it's rather meagerly outfitted, including such things as dry autumn branches as decoration and rattan chairs for seating...The portions tend to be small, too, though they've gradually grown larger in response to customer outcry. Happily, our branch achieves a level of pungency rarely seen in Siamese restaurants on this coast. The curries are thicker than at Queens Thais, and the variety of herbs more extensive." [VV]

Tables for Two checks out the uber stylish LES newcomer The Fat Radish: "...patrons remain unerringly pretty....Most of them aren’t eating a lot—the tequila-based ginger cocktail seems the most widely ordered item in the room—and that’s a shame, because the food is much better than it needs to be." [New Yorker]

Gael Greene experiences some hits and misses at Vareli in Morningside Heights and newcomer Lyon in the Meatpacking District. On the latter: "...rubbery quenelles in a rich cream sauce with a tangle of trompette mushrooms disappoint too. Bay scallops have such a brief season, I can’t resist them, but these taste faintly of flour and I would like more elbows in my Boursin cheese. Still, I rarely encounter macaroni I can’t almost love. And the steak is meaty and marvelous, not too tender, not too tough." [IC]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan tries the African land snail at Clinton Hill's Buka and Lauren Shockey gives a thumbs up to Karloff, a new café on the border of Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens.

THE BLOGS: NY Journal has a slam for Industria Argentina, Life With Food And Drink encounters a barrage of spiciness at Elsewhere, The Feisty Foodie encounters top notch meatballs at Loreley, Immaculate Infatuation enjoys their meal and singles out the oyster pan roast at The John Dory Oyster Bar, The Food Doc has a recap of Ma Peche's Fish Seven Ways Christmas special, NYC Foodie experiences scallop perfection at Marc Forgione, and The Oyster Blog has late night bivalves at Momofuku Ssam Bar and the Blue Ribbon flagship.