Today Sam Sifton awards a big fat deuce to Harold Dieterle's two month-old Thai restaurant Kin Shop: "Mr. Dieterle is as Thai as John Boehner. But he cooks from the Thai larder as if he had stepped out of a novel by John Burdett, a farang who can see ghosts, who knows that the mind is Buddha’s seat, who bleeds fish sauce." [NYT]
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