Today Adam Platt awards two stars to Michael White's newest, Osteria Morini. He's not wowed by the entrees, but raves about the fireworks that precede them: "There were absurdly rich croquettes filled with molten deposits of béchamel...delicious little pots of sformato (egg custard) mingled with braised mushrooms and truffles, and crocks of braised coxcombs...These nourishing treats were followed to the table by White’s generally impeccable pastas." [NYM]
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