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One Star for the Silly, Loud, Delicious Hurricane Club

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Krieger, 9/23/10

It's noisy, it's overcrowded, it's silly. But The Hurricane Club is fun, Sam Sifton argues this week, and it's serving some pretty decent grub. He gives it one star:

It might not be the best, the most interesting or the most important new restaurant in town. It may not prove to be the longest lasting. But it is among the most enjoyable places to open in recent months...

...Dover sole arrives with a delicate ginger-scallion sauce, addictive and luscious against the sweet of the fish...Best of all is a large serving board loaded with crisp-fried pork chunks served as if the dish were Peking duck, with scallions, cucumbers, a rich hoisin sauce and some spiced applesauce alongside, along with a large number of steamed buns. Accompanied by a plate of long-cooked pork ribs with a tamarind-chipotle barbecue sauce, and perhaps some Hawaiian fried rice as well, the combination makes for deeply serious dinner theater, in a deeply unserious space.

Sifton reiterates on the blog: "understand that the point of the restaurant is to have mindless fun in a difficult city, it is really a nice place to spend an evening." [NYT]

The Cuozz loves the food at Bar Basque but worries that the restaurant won't make it: "Bar Basque is heartbreak in the making. In an eye-popping room, it’s serving some of the finest Spanish Basque country-inspired cuisine in town. It has a sweet and smart floor team and, for the moment, energy and crowds to spare...Pray there’s enough demand for Basque cookery to fill 240 seats. Those enchanted by the food will be put off by the boozy party vibe, and those drawn to that vibe might recoil from $28 to $39 entrees." [NYP]

Ryan Sutton notes that while Riverpark makes a few missteps, it's a gorgeous restaurant with a built in audience and mostly good food: "The octopus roll is a tasty Mediterranean riff on the New England lobster sandwich...French-onion soup emerges as a brilliant maitake mushroom consomme...Surprising shrimp cocktail ends up delighting with head-on, barely cooked-through prawns." [Bloomberg]

Though Oliver Strand says that "The 3Bs special ($6.95), a Pat LaFrieda blend on a potato bun with American cheese, secret sauce and all the standard toppings, is like a ShackBurger without the wait," he calls the rest of the offerings at FoodParc disappointing: "RedFarm Stand is inconsistent, Fornetti is reliably dreadful." [NYT]

THE ELSEWHERE: Tables for Two is won over by the austere look of Vandaag, Gael Greene loves the fatty comfort foods and the doorman at Brooklyn Bowl, and Robert Sietsema declares that the pies at Donatella come closest to approximating the real thing in Naples.

THE BLOGS: Serious Eats gives a C+ to Mono + Mono a new Korean fried chicken place in the East Village, A Tiger In The Kitchen finds no faults at Ciano, Law and Food thinks that Lotus of Siam is leagues ahead of other New York Thai restos, Immaculate Infatuation likes the downtown vibe and pretty much all the food at Osteria Morini and is underwhelmed by Nuela, NY Journal enjoys much of the food (except for gnocchi and that $130 ribeye) at Lincoln and takes issue with the prices at Ciano, The Hungry Roach is blown away by Del Posto, and The Feisty Foodie can understand why Harold Dieterle won Top Chef after a visit to Kin Shop.

Riverpark

450 East 29th Street, Manhattan, NY 10016 (212) 729-9790 Visit Website

The Hurricane Club

360 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10010 Visit Website

Bar Basque

839 6th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 Visit Website

Brooklyn Bowl

61 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 963-3369 Visit Website

FoodParc

845 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10001 Visit Website

Vandaag

103 2nd Avenue, New York, NY 10003 Visit Website

The Hurricane Club

360 Park Ave. S New York, NY 10010

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