Tomorrow, Sam Sifton will review Casa Lever, the three month-old rebirth of the old Lever House by the owners of Sant Ambroeus.
PLAYBOOK: Ah, yet another Midtown revamp. He may be a seasoned Timesman, but Sifty must be getting tired of this neighborhood by now. Casa Lever. It's like the old Lever House but with more paintings, a new menu, and a livelier scene. The food seems mostly besides the point, but apparently, it's not so bad. CL has received a rave from a critic or two (see The Cuozz) and the expected knock downs from some naysayers (see Sutton). Where will Sifton land on the spectrum? Casa Lever seems like a place that aspires for two but just falls short of the mark. Odds go to the one.
SIFT HAPPENS: The Sift Happens scenario here is if the Siftonator is completely and utterly blown away, giving it a threespot. There's a bigger chance of him going this way than going goose, but it would be quite an event given the two he gave Oceana, the three he gave Marea, and the high marks he may give to the Four Seasons when he tries the new menu by Fabio Trabocchi.
THE LINE: Goose Egg: 100 -1; One Star: 2 - 1; Two Stars: 3 - 1; Three Stars: 50 - 1. [Casa Lever Reviewed, NYT; after ~ 8PM]