Tomorrow, Sam Sifton heads to the Upper East Side to file an assessment on the haughty, British import Le Caprice.
THE PLAYBOOK: This is the kind of restaurant that professional New York critics love to slam. Before it even opened, the owner—also involved in the Le Caprice in London and the Soho House here—bragged it would be difficult to get into. And lo and behold, the reservation books are outrageously (we're talking Monkey Bar levels) tight. It's snooty, it's pricey, and the focus is on the scene and the clientele of New York celebs and media power brokers. So a goose? Not so fast! Adam Platt gave her a deuce (his wife had the best dish of her life there), and Gael says it's not so bad. And then there's this: Sifty named Chef Michael Hartnell's smoked haddock tart as one of the best dishes of 2009. That could be enough to bump it to a one or a two.
SIFT HAPPENS: If the Siftonator really wants to stick it to 'em and show, like Bruni did at The Waverly Inn and Charles, that a scene at a difficult resy aren't going to impress him, he could go goose.
THE LINE: Goose Egg: 5-1; One Star: 2-1; Two Stars: 3-1; Three Stars: 20 -1; Four Stars: 5,000 - 1. [Le Caprice Reviewed, NYT; after ~ 8 PM]