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Sifton to File First Assessment of the Danny Meyer Universe

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Krieger, 11/10/09

Tomorrow, Sam Sifton files his first review of the Danny Meyer brood, doling out an assessment of the two month-old Maialino.

THE PLAYBOOK: Yes, dropping an official review on yet another young restaurant— the Breslin opened in mid-October, Maialino in November—is a tad aggressive. But if any restaurant can handle it, it's one of Danny Meyer's. As expected, she opened running on all cylinders and has sustained consistently packed houses ever since. Early assessments so far have skewed positive (especially where made critics are concerned), with some noise issues here and there and that one slam of a comparison to G 'n' R's Spaghetti Incident. A three or a one is within the realm of possibility, but smart money goes to the deuce today.

SIFT HAPPENS: Sifton has showed time and again that he's not afraid to drop a onespot where Frankie Two Stars would have left two. One star is still good, he reminds the hungry crowds. So he could follow suit here, noting that Maialino's solid, excellent even, but it's not the star in Danny's crown.

THE LINE: Goose Egg: 500 - 1; One Star: 5 - 1; Two Stars: 2-1; Three Stars: 3 - 1; Four Stars: 1,000 - 1. [Maialino Reviewed, NYT; after ~ 8PM]

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