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Week in Reviews: Kajitsu, The Brooklyn Star, and More

Krieger, 5/19/09

It's fall preview day over at the New York Times, so that and the fact that the city still waits in Times critic purgatory means review-lovers will have to settle for a couple of Dining Briefs today. First up, Julia Moskin on East Village vegetarian gem Kajitsu:

In each course, vegetables, from earth and ocean, are twisted and turned, salted and seasoned, spun and cut and carved into jewels, like a slice of sparkling aspic with tiny summer vegetables embedded in it...Some were interesting and delicious; some seemed pointless...for vegans, and students of the endlessly unfolding Japanese food scene, it is a must.

Meanwhile, Betsy Andrews finds veggies of a different sort (greasy) over in Williamsburg's The Brooklyn Star:

Joaquin Baca, the chef and owner of this Southern-accented comfort-food joint, excels at making veggies fattening, and good...His casseroles...are toasted to gooey goodness in his open kitchen’s 100-year-old brick oven. Creamed corn with smoked trout ($4) and earthy black-eyed peas and rice ($4) are spoonful-by-spoonful delicious. Surprisingly for the former Momofuku partner, meats are a mixed bag.

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan files an ice cream cart round-up for the Under, Jay Cheshes visits five "resto-clubs" The Mott, Ward III, Hotel Griffou, LevantEast, and the Gates, Gael Greene has some hits and misses at Bar Luna on the UWS and Co., and Tables for Two discusses the health benefits of Marea.

THE BLOGS: New York Journal thinks Chris Lee has his a home run with Aureole while the Food Doc finds room for improvement, NY Knife and Fork loves the smell (and the food) of Astoria newcomer The Sweet Afton, The Hungry Roach goes to standby Elio's on the UES, NYC Foodie finds an otherworldly charm at Kyo-Ya, and Ed Levine gives a B/B+ to Fairway Cafe on the UWS.


230 9th Ave, Manhattan, NY 10001 (212) 243-1105 Visit Website

The Brooklyn Star

593 Lorimer Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 599-9899 Visit Website