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Menu Sprawl

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Grouch-monster Steve Cuozzo files a column today complaining about modern day menus. Why can't they all just have two items like Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote, he cries. Why all the squinting in the candlelight and the long explanations from waiters? He argues that sprawling menus a) are confusing, b) lead to dishes coming out willy nilly, and c) are almost impossible to perfect. [NYP]

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