Ballpark Frank: The Redhead

Last week, when future Times critic Sam Sifton was spotted at East Village bar and Southern food favorite The Redhead, it was noted how unlikely it would be for him to come out of the gate reviewing it. But it would be equally unlikely for Master Brunz to go out on it, no? As it turns out, no. Remember, the man does enjoy a curveball, almost as much as he likes putting a worthy place on the map (and taking unworthy places down a notch). And in a time when just about every restaurant in this sweaty city is adding fried chicken to the menu, word is The Redhead has some of the best crispy bird around. Yes, Bruni would have gone out with a bang had he finished with the EMP four star, but the man hears his own drummer.

So Franktastic decided to show The Siftonator the ropes with some greasy bar food—bar food that he's already raved about in a cheap eats round up. What will he give her when she gets the spotlight to herself? You decide. [The Redhead, after 8PM; NYT]