Bruni explains, in even more words than in his review today, why Eleven Madison Park got four stars and the factors that earn a four star review in general. He also explains why Momo Ko didn't get it the first time around (nudging the Sifter to go again) and mentions that Marea or Del Posto could be the next Italian four stars. That confirms suspicions that he's ceding Mikey White's seafood palace to his successor. They'll have to be on their A game until late fall. [Diner's Journal]
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